Yotam Ottolenghi!


Sam Sifton emails readers of Cooking five days a week to talk about food and suggest recipes. That email also appears here. To receive it in your inbox, register here.Good morning. May I introduce you to our newest contributor, Yotam Ottolenghi, the Israeli-born British chef, restaurateur and cookbook writer? He will be writing for The Times occasionally about baking, and sharing his recipes. (I went to England to feast with Yotam last spring, and my accounting of the trip may give those unfamiliar with him some sense of who he is and how he works.)

Yotam’s debut article leads our Food section right now, and it is accompanied by recipes for kadaifi nests with poached pears and saffron cream, and pomegranate granita. Try those on for size. We are all excited to welcome him to our world of the delicious.

Also online this week, Kim Severson’s delightful interview with our kitchen-obsessed news- and opinion-side colleagues Jennifer Steinhauer and Frank Bruni, who are just out with a paean-cookbook called “A Meatloaf in Every Oven.” Kim’s interview comes with a recipe, of course, for Moroccan-style meatloaf. That could be dinner real soon.

Tonight, though, I’m hoping some of you will join me in our weekly exercise in cooking without a recipe. This time out: chicken thighs, preferably on the bone, with skin, that you should season aggressively with salt and pepper and then cook slowly on the stovetop in a mixture of unsalted butter and olive oil until they are crisp and dense. If you have fresh rosemary around, add a sprig to the pan. If you have dried in the pantry, sprinkle some over the top, and perhaps some red pepper flakes, too. Serve with a baguette, butter and a salad of baby greens dressed in olive oil, lemon juice, garlic and a splash of fat from the pan of chicken.

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